Gunnarsons specialkonditori — Specialty Store in SoFo, Stockholm

Gunnarsons specialkonditori is an old-style konditori on Götgatan in SoFo, the kind of place that has stayed put while other cafes opened around it. Step in and the first thing you meet is the pastry counter, long and full, with cakes, buns, sandwiches and most of what you would want for a coffee break laid out behind glass.

The Oscar II cake is the thing to order first: almond base, cream, a thin layer of chocolate, and a flavour that holds up as the best in town. The semla comes in a gluten-free version and is worth the trip on its own; the princess cake is the classic green one, and the mousse cakes are a favourite among the counter's offerings. If you want something less expected, look for the apple-filled pastry, slightly sour against the sweetness.

Seating is upstairs, and there is plenty of room once you climb the stairs; the pink theme runs through the room. You order at the counter and carry your tray up. Staff are friendly and helpful.

Prices are high for what you get: two shrimp salads come to 179 SEK each, and the cakes sit at the upper end of what you would pay in the inner city. The trade-off is the setting and the classics done properly. Come early on a Saturday if you want a table without a wait.

The shop suits anyone who wants a proper sit-down fika in SoFo rather than a quick takeaway coffee.