Le Pétrin de Pigalle — Specialty Store in Pigalle, Paris

Le Pétrin de Pigalle is an independent family bakery on Rue Henry Monnier in Pigalle, the kind of small sweet-and-savoury shop where the counter is the whole room and the display case does the talking. Bread sits in the window, pastries are laid out behind glass, and you order at the counter and take it away.

The croissant is the one to get first: plain, well baked, with a depth of flavour that is not automatic at this price. The pain au chocolat goes out again and again alongside coffee, and an almond and raisin version is worth asking for when it is there. Savoury, the croque monsieur comes out golden and balanced, and a spinach and cheese sandwich is wrapped so it holds for a few hours, which makes it a workable breakfast and lunch in one.

Coffee is Italian in style, and the espresso and caffè crema are treated as a serious part of the offer rather than an afterthought. Canelés are worth adding to the bag, and fresh orange juice is squeezed rather than bottled. Baguettes come out fresh, and warm sandwiches are made to order.

Prices stay low for the neighbourhood, and there is a money-saving move built into the shop: bags of the previous day's pastries are sold as zero-waste bags, a mixed selection at a lower price. There is a card minimum of three euros, so carry a little cash if you are buying a single pastry.

It is a small, personal operation with a warm welcome at the counter, and staff who are patient with halting French. Come early for the full display.