Pain Pain — Specialty Store in Pigalle, Paris

Pain Pain is an independent bakery and pastry shop on Rue des Martyrs in Pigalle, a few steps from the benches below Sacré-Cœur. What you notice first is the aroma of bread coming out of the oven and a pastry case that runs the length of the counter, packed with éclairs, viennoiseries and larger tarts.

Start with the éclair, chocolate or pistachio, where the filling is rich but balanced rather than overly sweet. The traditional baguette has a crisp crust and an open crumb, and the baguette sandwiches, including a bacon and goat cheese version, are generously filled. The flan is generous enough to share, the almond croissant holds its own in the area, and the pain suisse earns its place in the case.

The shop works as a counter, not a café: you order, everything is wrapped to take away, and there are no tables inside. The staff are welcoming and helpful, and the espresso is stiff. In summer the sandwiches are not warmed; in other seasons they are, and they taste better that way.

Prices sit in the €1–10 band: an éclair is around €4.40, a pain au chocolat about €1.70, and the traditional baguette €1.40. Viennoiseries are better earlier in the day, and the shop opens at 7:30 am, so a morning stop catches the pastry case at its best.

It suits anyone who wants a proper baguette or éclair to carry to the benches near Sacré-Cœur, and anyone passing on the way to work.