Celeiro — Bio Store in Alvalade, Lisbon

This is one branch of Celeiro, sitting on Praça Alvalade in the Alvalade neighbourhood, a short hop from Alvalade station. What sets it apart from the rest of the chain is the lunch trade: it works as a small daytime canteen as much as a grocery.

The thing to order is the salmon and vegetable tart, served at lunch as a thick, generous slice for a few euros, and it holds up as a full meal next to a bowl of zucchini soup. Pair it with the organic red fruit juice, pressed fresh and tasting of the fruit rather than sugar. Both come out as an affordable lunch rather than a splurge.

The shelves carry an organic range that regulars treat as the reason to keep coming back, and the counter is where coffee and hot food are handled. That counter is also where things slow down: you can stand waiting a while before anyone takes your coffee or food order, so build a few extra minutes into a lunch stop.

Spend lands somewhere between €15 and €40 for a basket, depending on whether you are provisioning or just eating. The tart and juice keep a lunch at the low end.

For a traveller based in or passing through Alvalade, this is a useful hybrid: pick up organic groceries and eat a proper lunch in the same stop, without leaving the neighbourhood.