Seraphine — Specialty Store in Passy, Paris

Seraphine is an independent bakery on a quiet street in Passy, and it reads as a bakery rather than a café: a small room, a display of pastries and tarts, and no tables to sit at. You find it because you are looking for it, and the reward is a counter of viennoiseries that holds up against anything else in the neighbourhood.

Start with the croissant. The pain au chocolat is the other breakfast order. A kouign amann is worth adding, and the cinnamon roll belongs in the same morning bag. Among the sweet things, the flan and the tarts are worth ordering, including a cherry tomato tart and a lemon meringue one.

Savory holds its own. The croque monsieur is the real thing, toasted bread with ham and cheese, and the baguette sandwiches are generous enough to carry to a picnic. Sandwiches are not usually out first thing, but you can order them for pickup the next morning. A set menu of a sandwich, dessert and a drink costs 10 euros.

Service is warm and patient with limited French, and the staff will help you with pronunciation. The vanilla éclair is fine.

What this shop is not is a place to sit: there is no seating, and it is a grab-and-go counter. It still suits anyone staying in Passy who wants a proper breakfast pastry before the day starts.