Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Laurent Dheilly — Specialty Store in Les Halles, Paris

Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Laurent Dheilly is an independent bakery and pastry shop on Rue des Halles, in Les Halles, and what you notice first is the pastry case: viennoiserie and cakes laid out for people buying on their way through the neighbourhood.

The butter croissant is the thing to order first, flaky, buttery and fragrant, and it costs €1.30. The pain au chocolat is the other staple, and the apple tart and apple-filled rolls are fresh, with a delicate texture rather than heavy sugar. If you want something less sweet, the mango, lemon and chocolate pastries each keep their own flavour. The pistachio-chocolate escargot is a spiral pastry at a fair price.

For lunch, toasted baguette sandwiches, including ham and cheese, come out crispy and fresh at around €6, and the tomato and goat cheese spinach quiches make a quick plate. Everything is made on site, pastries included, and it shows in the layering.

Seating is the catch: two small tables out front, so on a busy morning you take your croissant and coffee away rather than sit. Expect the counter to move fast.

Prices stay low for central Paris, which is the real reason to come: a croissant and a coffee cost less here than a single espresso at many spots nearby. Take the sandwich to the quays for a picnic. It suits anyone staying in Les Halles who wants breakfast without a sit-down price.