Aux Merveilleux de Fred — Specialty Store in Le Marais, Paris

Aux Merveilleux de Fred in Le Marais is a specialty shop on Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, and the first thing you notice is the open bakery feel: you can watch the bakers work behind the window while brioche and meringue sweets are on offer. The pastry chefs work live behind the window.

Start with the cramique, the raisin-studded brioche loaf that works best while it is still warm. The warm cramiques, especially the chocolate or sugar ones, are incomparably soft. The giant pangocciolo is the other clear order, an oversized chocolate-chip brioche bun that feels soft and is easy to share, while the chocolate chip brioche gives you the same warm, on-the-spot bread-and-chocolate appeal. It comes in at about €4.70, which gives you a clear price point for that size.

The merveilleux lean light and delicate, with flavours such as chocolate, pistachio, caramel, speculoos praline, and a lemon version. The pain au lait with chestnut cream is another option, and the shop also sells small assorted portions for trying more than one thing. Those small portions let you sample several flavours without taking a large one.

Come earlier in the day if you want the fullest choice. Service can be quick even with a queue. The giant pangocciolo around €4.70 gives a useful reference point. Despite the queue, the service is quick and efficient.